“So, that’s the plane?” I thought myself as I stared out of the window at the end of the terminal at Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport.
This little regional jet would be the vehicle that would take us on the final leg of our journey from Philadelphia to Porto. That 50-minute flight would be the beginning of one of the most memorable trips of our lives.
My wife Melissa DiPento and I had traveled to Lisbon in the summer of 2016 and fell in love with the Portuguese people and their way of life, so we decided to use her one-week break from graduate school to explore the northern part of the country we had grown so fond of.We stayed in an apartment on Rua de Miguel Bombarda that was furnished in 1950s style and its balcony overlooked a verdant lot where roosters crowed in the morning to let us know it was daybreak through the automatic blinds that blacked out the bedroom.
The only thing I knew about Porto before our trip was that it was famous for Port wine, but the city had so much more than just excellent fortified wine.
One our first day in the city, our first order of business was locating some coffee (cafe, espresso) in an attempt to combat the jetlag from our trans-Atlantic flight. Luckily, there was no shortage of establishments available to meet our needs.
Carrying our duffel bags and backpacks, we wandered into Restaurante Confeitaria Cunha after getting off the subway from the airport. The building was much more expansive than the looks of its facade. Sitting at the two-seat table, it felt like we were transported back to another decade. This charming, seemingly traditional restaurant was just one side of the Porto we would discover.
After several cafe pit stops and a power nap, we felt acclimated to the time change and ready to really sink our teeth into city.
For fear of going full restaurant reviewer, I’ll just highlight some of the places we dined at that stood out and gave us a great appreciation for the modern culinary scene in Porto.
Full disclosure: we didn’t really wake up in time for lunch most of the time, but the days we did we found some incredible eats. And no, we did not eat at the super ornate McDonald’s on Praça da Liberdade.
Lunch spots
DaTerra Restaurante Vegetariano — The vegetarian restaurant offered a lunch buffet that featured a very much welcomed variety of plant-based dishes. The veggies were a nice change of pace from the city’s superior meat and seafood offerings.
Black Mamba — Burgers & Records — This vegan punk place was a very fun space to dine in. It was part dining room part record store.
Dona Arepa — The Venezuelan sandwiches were a great snack to hold us over until dinner.
Puro 4050 — The Italian influenced tapas we had here featured divine cheeses, meats and vegetables.
Dinner places
Cantina 32 — The aesthetic of this restaurant caught our eye as we walked down the street looking for dinner on our second night in the city. The book was as good as its cover and the food was as good as the decor. We also took great pleasure in the taste and name of the “punched potatoes in jackets.”
Cantinho do Avillez — When we were researching places to try in Porto, this place was near the top of the list, and its modern Portuguese menu did not disappoint. The “hazelnut” dessert was definitely an experience I needed to have.
Bugo Art Burgers — We savored fancy hamburgers and craft beer. As much as I appreciate Super Bock, it was fun to try some local Porto brews.
FRIDA — Restaurante — Bar — Mexican is our favorite cuisine back home and we usually make an effort to find some when we travel. Porto was no exception; Frida did not disappoint with its unique take on some classic dishes like tamales and guacamole.
The dining in Porto diverse, creative and delicious. I don’t want you to get the wrong idea about our seemly gluttonous tour of Porto, we walked numerous miles (kilometers, if you prefer) up and down the city’s picturesque hills. And I was even able to train one evening with the fine folks at Norte Forte — Kickboxing and Muay Thai.
I didn’t have a chance to try a Francesinha — the city’s signature sandwich — but that gives me a good reason to come back to Porto, not that I needed another one. The city is an amazing place with traffic people and culture. Porto forever has a piece of our heart.
Ryan Venezia is a freelance journalist who lives in Philadelphia, USA with his wife Melissa and their corgi son Gimli.
Twitter: @veneziar
Instagram: @ryanvenezia
